You can with a Nikon, not with a Canon ;-))

My D80 HAD FP, but the problem is, the D40 doesn´t. Don´t understand hit
rate. I get good pictures, if that´s what you´re worried about...


"Gino" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:erqdnX50-KPHoXXbnZ2dnUVZ8vWdnZ2d@pipex.net...

I guess that you haven't heard of fp or high speed sync?

Would be interesting to know the hit rate using your method. My guess is
that it's not too reliable.


"Sosumi" <sosumi@home.nl> wrote in message
news:2JKdnc62rfEMcHrbnZ2dneKdnZydnZ2d@novis.pt...

Hack the flash so you synch at 1/4000 !!!
I did it with the D40. Normal synch is already good at 1/500, but I want
the camera to do what I want, not what he wants. So yesterday I got my
new SB 800 flash, very nice and fantastic features, like max. distance of
over 50 meters!
Everything automatic, even the zoom up to 105 mm works together with the
lens and if the camera goes standby or you turn it of, so does the flash.

I had just finished the book (125 pages) and tried everything out. OK it
works as a slave and everything you can want in a flash: it has got it!
But I stay bothered by the max flash synch at 1/500. Why the heck is
that? I remember when I had the D80, it flashed at any speed I choose,
with the internal flash.
So I found something on the net: tape all contacts of the camera or flash
with paper or tape, except the middle one.

That´s all. The camera thinks it has no flash and all automatic stuff is
gone, but the flash DOES fire!! So I was able to FREEZE falling water
from the tap in the kitchen. Very cool!!

You just have to play with the aperture and the amount of flash a little.
But it´s digital, so you can fool around as much as necesary.

I did read most Canon camera´s can´t do this trick. Except maybe the
older ones or more/most expensive. But lemme know if it´s not true!
Also: show some pictures with what you can freeze here.

In article <2JKdnc62rfEMcHrbnZ2dneKdnZydnZ2d@novis.pt>, sosumi@home.nl says...

That´s all. The camera thinks it has no flash and all automatic stuff is
gone, but the flash DOES fire!! So I was able to FREEZE falling water from
the tap in the kitchen. Very cool!!

The obvious question is why would you want to set the shutter speed to 1/4000
second for this? A totally unnecessary complication.

Flash exposure is only about aperture and flash power. NOT about shutter
speed. You only want the shutter to be open for flash. The only time you
would care about exact shutter speed is for ambient lighting, if somehow mixed
in the same frame (like outdoors in daylight - then matching the two
exposures is necessary). At any one given aperture and ISO, then shutter
speed controls ambient exposure, and flash power controls flash exposure.
This is simply how things work.

With regard to freezing your falling water, try this:

Set lens aperture to maybe f/16 (for depth, am assuming up close)

Set shutter speed to Bulb, where it stays open as long as you hold the button
down (a couple of seconds). Set ISO 200.

Set SB-800 flash to Manual, at lowest 1/128 power level (for fastest speed),
at perhaps 8 inches (20 cm) from water subject (assuming flash zoom setting
is at 24mm). Vary this ballpark distance in or out, as needed for proper
exposure.

Open shutter (hold button down in Bulb)

Start the water drop moving, or whatever.

Fire SB-800 flash in manual from maybe 8 inches (for water drops)
(assuming it is timed to be at the right instant desired as subject).

Then we are done, so close shutter by letting go of shutter button to shut it.
Shutter was open maybe 1 or 2 seconds (shutter speed), but the water drop is
perfectly frozen by the flash speed.. Which duration is 1/41,400 second for
Nikon SB-800 at 1/128 power.

The 1/41,400 second flash is much faster than the 1/4000 second shutter, and
the shutter has no effect at all (so long as it was open). Even when the
shutter speed was two seconds, it still has no effect at all (in this case).

The 1/41,4000 second flash duration stops the motion. Not the shutter.
Indoors in a halfway dim room, the ambient will not register in a couple of
seconds.

Theoretically, you might choose to use a tremendously slow flash unit with a
fast enough shutter speed to matter, but why would you possibly want to?

See http://www.scantips.com/speed.html about why speed lights are called speed
lights, and regarding stopping motion with flash.

--
Wayne
http://www.scantips.com "A few scanning tips"

In article <GuidnbtwEpKm2nXbnZ2dnUVZ8sCsnZ2d@novis.pt>, sosumi@home.nl
says...

My D80 HAD FP, but the problem is, the D40 doesn?t. Don?t understand hit
rate. I get good pictures, if that?s what you?re worried about...

100 good out of 100 ?
50 good out of 100 ?
20 good out of 100 ?

Hit rate..


Anyway, Supporting what Wayne said elsewhere.

http://www.evil-photographer.com/water.jpg

Very quick & dirty test..

Canon 350D. 1 sec at F8 in darkness.
Canon 580EX.

T.

Sosumi wrote:

"Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:WlUFi.160024$fJ5.5622@pd7urf1no...

Sosumi wrote:

So I found something on the net: tape all contacts of the camera or flash
with paper or tape, except the middle one.
Any camera with hotshoe will do that with any hotshoe flash.

That´s all. The camera thinks it has no flash and all automatic stuff is
gone, but the flash DOES fire!!
No shit, Sherlock! Check out any non-dedicated generic flash and any

older camera that doesn't support dedicated flash - ALL they use is the
center contact! Wow!

So I was able to FREEZE falling water from the tap in the kitchen. Very
cool!!
Neat, you've just re-discovered one of the first things ever done with the

invention of the camera flash.

You just have to play with the aperture and the amount of flash a little.
Pick up a cheap non-dedicated flash... they have this little chart on the

back that tells you what aperture to use at what distance for any given
ISO speed. Wow, you're right on top of things with this radical new
technique!

I did read most Canon camera´s can´t do this trick.
You read wrong.

Just shot this with my 300D and 420EX flash. No contacts taped up, flash
set to high-speed sync, camera set to 1/4000, f/11, ISO200.

http://www2.moltenimage.com/photos/1-4000_flash.jpg

Unsharp, outta focus and too dark. What else, genius?

You didn't ask for focus or exposure, you asked for flash sync at
1/4000s. Any other comments, idiot?

You quote and read wrong: I wrote "except for the older ones" What do you
call a 300D? New model? Practically a dinosaur.
Try it with a "modern" Canon like the D400.

A four-year-old camera is "a dinosaur"? Wow... then what would my
1956-vintage Argus C-3 be? The 400D (not D400) is the younger brother to
the 300D. Seeing as it's essentially a newer version of the same
camera, and can use the same 420EX flash, how would it be any different
in this regard?

it's not the camera does the trick but the flash. any flash with very short
duration including your SB 800 could do the trick working with a canon
camera or any camera. of course you need the understanding of how to trigger
the flash on.

"Sosumi" <sosumi@home.nl> wrote in message
news:2JKdnc62rfEMcHrbnZ2dneKdnZydnZ2d@novis.pt...

Hack the flash so you synch at 1/4000 !!!
I did it with the D40. Normal synch is already good at 1/500, but I want
the camera to do what I want, not what he wants. So yesterday I got my new
SB 800 flash, very nice and fantastic features, like max. distance of over
50 meters!
Everything automatic, even the zoom up to 105 mm works together with the
lens and if the camera goes standby or you turn it of, so does the flash.

I had just finished the book (125 pages) and tried everything out. OK it
works as a slave and everything you can want in a flash: it has got it!
But I stay bothered by the max flash synch at 1/500. Why the heck is that?
I remember when I had the D80, it flashed at any speed I choose, with the
internal flash.
So I found something on the net: tape all contacts of the camera or flash
with paper or tape, except the middle one.

That´s all. The camera thinks it has no flash and all automatic stuff is
gone, but the flash DOES fire!! So I was able to FREEZE falling water from
the tap in the kitchen. Very cool!!

You just have to play with the aperture and the amount of flash a little.
But it´s digital, so you can fool around as much as necesary.

I did read most Canon camera´s can´t do this trick. Except maybe the older
ones or more/most expensive. But lemme know if it´s not true!
Also: show some pictures with what you can freeze here.

Matt Ion wrote:

Sosumi wrote:

"Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:WlUFi.160024$fJ5.5622@pd7urf1no...

Sosumi wrote:

So I found something on the net: tape all contacts of the camera
or flash with paper or tape, except the middle one.
Any camera with hotshoe will do that with any hotshoe flash.

That´s all. The camera thinks it has no flash and all automatic
stuff is gone, but the flash DOES fire!!
No shit, Sherlock! Check out any non-dedicated generic flash and

any older camera that doesn't support dedicated flash - ALL they
use is the center contact! Wow!

So I was able to FREEZE falling water from the tap in the kitchen.
Very cool!!
Neat, you've just re-discovered one of the first things ever done

with the invention of the camera flash.

You just have to play with the aperture and the amount of flash a
little.
Pick up a cheap non-dedicated flash... they have this little chart

on the back that tells you what aperture to use at what distance
for any given ISO speed. Wow, you're right on top of things with
this radical new technique!

I did read most Canon camera´s can´t do this trick.
You read wrong.

Just shot this with my 300D and 420EX flash. No contacts taped up,
flash set to high-speed sync, camera set to 1/4000, f/11, ISO200.

http://www2.moltenimage.com/photos/1-4000_flash.jpg

Unsharp, outta focus and too dark. What else, genius?

You didn't ask for focus or exposure, you asked for flash sync at
1/4000s. Any other comments, idiot?

You quote and read wrong: I wrote "except for the older ones" What
do you call a 300D? New model? Practically a dinosaur.
Try it with a "modern" Canon like the D400.

A four-year-old camera is "a dinosaur"? Wow... then what would my
1956-vintage Argus C-3 be? The 400D (not D400) is the younger brother
to the 300D. Seeing as it's essentially a newer version of the same
camera, and can use the same 420EX flash, how would it be any
different in this regard?

Vous parlez de quoi ?
je ne voudrais pas déranger.
--
--
Ricco

To all our Australian friends: please note that fr.rec.photo is a
French-speaking newsgroup.
Please either discard its address from your adress list or translate all
the above discussions into the French language, as you may choose. ;-)

Thank You and kind regards.

Ghost Rider

I think it´s a great idea!
Thanks, I´m going to try it!

"Wayne" <nospam@invalid.com> wrote in message
news:20070912-210053.962.0@Wayne.news.verizon.net...

In article <2JKdnc62rfEMcHrbnZ2dneKdnZydnZ2d@novis.pt>, sosumi@home.nl
says...

That´s all. The camera thinks it has no flash and all automatic stuff is
gone, but the flash DOES fire!! So I was able to FREEZE falling water from
the tap in the kitchen. Very cool!!

The obvious question is why would you want to set the shutter speed to
1/4000
second for this? A totally unnecessary complication.

Flash exposure is only about aperture and flash power. NOT about shutter
speed. You only want the shutter to be open for flash. The only time you
would care about exact shutter speed is for ambient lighting, if somehow
mixed
in the same frame (like outdoors in daylight - then matching the two
exposures is necessary). At any one given aperture and ISO, then shutter
speed controls ambient exposure, and flash power controls flash exposure.
This is simply how things work.

With regard to freezing your falling water, try this:

Set lens aperture to maybe f/16 (for depth, am assuming up close)

Set shutter speed to Bulb, where it stays open as long as you hold the
button
down (a couple of seconds). Set ISO 200.

Set SB-800 flash to Manual, at lowest 1/128 power level (for fastest
speed),
at perhaps 8 inches (20 cm) from water subject (assuming flash zoom
setting
is at 24mm). Vary this ballpark distance in or out, as needed for proper
exposure.

Open shutter (hold button down in Bulb)

Start the water drop moving, or whatever.

Fire SB-800 flash in manual from maybe 8 inches (for water drops)
(assuming it is timed to be at the right instant desired as subject).

Then we are done, so close shutter by letting go of shutter button to shut
it.
Shutter was open maybe 1 or 2 seconds (shutter speed), but the water drop
is
perfectly frozen by the flash speed.. Which duration is 1/41,400 second
for
Nikon SB-800 at 1/128 power.

The 1/41,400 second flash is much faster than the 1/4000 second shutter,
and
the shutter has no effect at all (so long as it was open). Even when the
shutter speed was two seconds, it still has no effect at all (in this
case).

The 1/41,4000 second flash duration stops the motion. Not the shutter.
Indoors in a halfway dim room, the ambient will not register in a couple
of
seconds.

Theoretically, you might choose to use a tremendously slow flash unit with
a
fast enough shutter speed to matter, but why would you possibly want to?

See http://www.scantips.com/speed.html about why speed lights are called
speed
lights, and regarding stopping motion with flash.

--
Wayne
http://www.scantips.com "A few scanning tips"

"Ghost-Rider" <ghost-rider@in-the-sky.net> a écrit dans le message de news:
46e8f23f$0$5091$ba4acef3@news.orange.fr...

To all our Australian friends: please note that fr.rec.photo is a
French-speaking newsgroup.
Please either discard its address from your adress list or translate all
the above discussions into the French language, as you may choose. ;-)

C'est fou comme l'anglais ressemble à du spam !

:)
--
Jérôme

On 12 Sep, 22:00, Wayne <nos...@invalid.com> wrote:

In article <2JKdnc62rfEMcHrbnZ2dneKdnZydn...@novis.pt>, sos...@home.nl sa ys...

That´s all. The camera thinks it has no flash and all automatic stuff is
gone, but the flash DOES fire!! So I was able to FREEZE falling water fr om
the tap in the kitchen. Very cool!!

The obvious question is why would you want to set the shutter speed to 1/ 4000
second for this? A totally unnecessary complication.

Flash exposure is only about aperture and flash power. NOT about shutter
speed. You only want the shutter to be open for flash. The only time you
would care about exact shutter speed is for ambient lighting, if somehow mixed
in the same frame (like outdoors in daylight - then matching the two
exposures is necessary). At any one given aperture and ISO, then shutter
speed controls ambient exposure, and flash power controls flash exposure.
This is simply how things work.

With regard to freezing your falling water, try this:

Set lens aperture to maybe f/16 (for depth, am assuming up close)

Set shutter speed to Bulb, where it stays open as long as you hold the bu tton
down (a couple of seconds). Set ISO 200.

Set SB-800 flash to Manual, at lowest 1/128 power level (for fastest spee d),
at perhaps 8 inches (20 cm) from water subject (assuming flash zoom setti ng
is at 24mm). Vary this ballpark distance in or out, as needed for proper
exposure.

Open shutter (hold button down in Bulb)

Start the water drop moving, or whatever.

Fire SB-800 flash in manual from maybe 8 inches (for water drops)
(assuming it is timed to be at the right instant desired as subject).

Then we are done, so close shutter by letting go of shutter button to shu t it.
Shutter was open maybe 1 or 2 seconds (shutter speed), but the water drop is
perfectly frozen by the flash speed.. Which duration is 1/41,400 second for
Nikon SB-800 at 1/128 power.

The 1/41,400 second flash is much faster than the 1/4000 second shutter, and
the shutter has no effect at all (so long as it was open). Even when the
shutter speed was two seconds, it still has no effect at all (in this cas e).

The 1/41,4000 second flash duration stops the motion. Not the shutter.
Indoors in a halfway dim room, the ambient will not register in a couple of
seconds.

Theoretically, you might choose to use a tremendously slow flash unit wit h a
fast enough shutter speed to matter, but why would you possibly want to?

Seehttp://www.scantips.com/speed.htmlabout why speed lights are called sp eed
lights, and regarding stopping motion with flash.

I did something like this long ago in school. We were photographing a
light bulb exploding when it was shot by an air rifle.

The bulb was a blown stage lamp from the theatre. Like a home bulb
but a lot bigger. We held it in a clamp.

The rifle was into another clamp aimed at the bulb and locked into
place. This was important since for the photograph, the room would be
blacked out.

The camera was my cheap Praktica 35mm SLR on a tripod aimed at the
bulb. Again the tripod was necessary since it the room would be
dark.

The flash was not connected to the camera. Instead it was fired by a
microphone (with a simple circuit between the mic and the flash).

Once everything was set up, we blacked out the room, locked the
shutter open, and fired the gun.

We had several bulbs but not many so test runs were performed using
paper targets. Delay was controlled by the simple technique of moving
the microphone towards or away from the gun. There was no deliberate
or controllable delay in our firing circuit.

After a run with paper targets and various delays we went to the dark
room to develop the film.

Then we made some guesses as to which delay would be best with the
bulb and shot a few of the bulbs. We got a couple of nice shots
(sic). The flying glass was nicely frozen and easily visible. I
don't recall if we caught or froze the bullet. I should still have
the picture somewhere but it could take me a while to find it.

This was not an officially approved school experiment just an
unsupervised lunch time photography club gone wild. I don't think
that kids today would get away with such a thing. Even then the
teacher may have stopped us if he had known. We showed him the
results and he was quite impressed. Since, the experiment had
finished without death or injury and not too much mess, we did not get
into any trouble.

--
Seán Ó Leathlóbhair